I found a powder-pink bra at the back of a drawer the other day, bought in 2009. It turned out to be a proper Proustian moment: a time when lingerie hovered between powder shades, little florals and the first promises of organic cotton. Seventeen years on, what's left of all that? I haven't tested every piece mentioned back then, but I've cross-checked those trends against what people are actually wearing and buying now. The result is more interesting than a straightforward revival.

Powder-pink bra resting on folded lingerie in an open drawer
At the back of the drawer, the powder-pink memory

Powder and florals, still going strong

In 2009, the brand Huit was pushing extra-light tones, blush-pink balconette bras and cream florals. That floaty style hasn't vanished; it has moved towards seamless nude lines and very fine lace. Today the credible equivalent sits with brands that offer light cups, soft fabrics and flesh tones designed for a range of skin tones.

Why does this style still speak to us? Because it doesn't show under a light top, which sorts out a good share of rushed mornings. The useful rule: try the shade against your skin, not just on the hanger. A nude that's too pink shows up straight away under a white T-shirt.

Blush-pink balconette bra embroidered with cream flowers, worn by a model
The powder-pink balconette with cream florals keeps all its softness

Bright white and a retro mood

Pure white, bows, frills and push-up shapes were all part of the picture. We liked the reassuring opacity and the unapologetically feminine look. In 2026, that appetite for white and retro shows up in high-waisted knickers, cotton sets and discreet embroidery. The difference is comfort: fewer scratchy petticoats, more stretch fabrics and cuts that hold the silhouette without digging in.

White cotton set with high-waisted knickers, worn in front of a bright window
White cotton and a high waist make for a comfortable kind of retro

If this is the look you're after, start with an off-white rather than an optical white. It flatters more skin tones and sits under light clothing without creating an odd line at the neckline.

Back view of a white lace bra with fine straps
Fine straps and discreet embroidery keep white looking refined
Cream set with small satin bows laid on a pale quilt
The retro bow is back, softer and more comfortable than before

Contrast embroidery and the organic question

Lingerie with contrasting embroidery and a close-fitting cut appealed for its slightly different feel. The ‘Huit is Biotiful’ line promised organic cotton, ultra-soft and utterly simple. The exact name is gone, and that's no bad thing: the real issue today isn't the word ‘organic’ on the label but the certification behind it. Look for labels such as GOTS or Oeko-Tex, or for recycled fibres.

Lingerie set with contrasting embroidery worn by a young woman seated
Contrasting embroidery gives underwear a character of its own
Soft ecru organic cotton bra worn by a young woman
The simplicity of ecru cotton, no frills and no pointless seams

An uncertified organic cotton tells you nothing about how it was grown or how it was dyed. Less glamorous to write about on a blog, but far more useful when you reach for your card.

Princesse Tam Tam, fruit prints and sand tones

Princesse Tam Tam remains a name known for its prints and colours. In 2009 you'd find fruity tones, a sorbet yellow and blue flowers in a toile de Jouy style. Those exact references have left the catalogues. The current equivalent: floral prints, sand shades and midnight-blue lace, picked from capsule collections, often in small runs.

Microfibre set printed with yellow and blue flowers worn by a young woman
Sorbet yellow and blue florals remain safe bets

My advice: look at the composition before the print. A pretty pattern on cheap polyester holds up less well over time than a simple, soft knit, even if it looks less spectacular on screen. Texture doesn't show on a screen, and yet it's what you wear all day.

Blue floral print set on a sand background worn by a young woman standing
A matching set, from bra to knickers, for a complete look
Close-up of the soft, plain knit of a sand-coloured piece of lingerie
Texture first, print second: it's the texture you wear

Simone Pérèle, Chantelle and Aubade: where the refinement lies

At Simone Pérèle, Chantelle and Aubade, lingerie was elaborate: lace and tulle, sheer panels, sage ivory, fine straps, gold embroidery on a taupe base. The houses are still there, but the Muse, Arty, Pure Beauty, Chantilly, Caprice and Précieux Talisman lines are no longer current references. The right move is to look for their contemporary equivalents: Leavers lace, embroidered tulle, slips, powder or azure shades.

Ivory lace bra with fine straps and gold embroidery, worn
Lace, tulle and gold thread: refinement lives in the detail
Back view of an ivory lace bra with fine straps, worn in a fitting room
How the cup holds and how the hooks are made are what count

Refinement isn't about the name of a collection; it's about how the cup holds and how good the finishing is. How do you tell in a shop? Look at the inside of the cup and at how solid the hooks are, two details that say more than the label and its logo.

Embroidered tulle slip worn with an ivory robe in a fitting room
Slip, embroidered tulle and powder shades for a polished look

La Redoute and the budget end

La Redoute sold bright, low-priced underwear, including an emerald satin set with a big bow. The styles change every season, and you'll still find colourful, affordable sets today. Check three things before you click buy: the size, the composition and the returns policy.

Emerald satin set with a large bow worn in a fitting room
Green satin and a big bow add a shot of colour

A low price doesn't excuse a bra that rides up at the back. That's the kind of detail you can't see in a photo and yet it decides your day, especially if you spend it sitting down.

Coral cotton bra and knickers, fit checked in a fitting room
Size, composition and support: the three things to check

What to keep, what to leave behind

Keep the powder tones, the white, the florals, the contrasts and the wish for more responsible lingerie. Leave behind the obsolete references, the prices of another era and the cuts designed for a single body type. The 2009 trends had real charm, but they often fell short on inclusivity and on transparency about materials.

Today you can have the same romance with more comfort, more sizes and more information about what you're buying. And if you don't fancy replacing everything? Start with a single piece that genuinely fits: that's the move that changes things, far more than a whole drawer swapped out on a whim.

Before you buy a set, measure your underband and your bust at the end of the day. The right instinct: start with the band size, not the cup. A 34B and a 32C can look close on paper, but they don't sit the same way. If you're between two sizes, take the one that holds without pinching.

Young woman in a pink cotton set sitting beside a drawer of folded lingerie
A shortlist that keeps the romance and gains in comfort
Beige cotton set worn, with a small shopping bag resting on a bench
A modest budget, provided you check size and composition

Budget

Prices depend on the range, the fabric and the finish. Expect roughly £10 to £25 for a basic cotton or microfibre set, £35 to £80 for a mid-range lace set, and £90 to £180 or more for a piece from a house such as Simone Pérèle, Chantelle or Aubade. The bill rises with the fineness of the lace, the quality of the finishing, the reputation of the brand and sometimes the size, since cups outside the standard range often cost a little more.

Where to buy? Supermarkets and online retailers are still the cheapest, with returns that are usually simple but a fit that's approximate. In a specialist lingerie boutique or a department store lingerie hall, you're paying for advice and fitting, and that makes a big difference on a £90 piece. Sales and outlet stores bring the bill down, provided you know your size before you walk in.

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