Tailored hair care advice

Dry or greasy hair, an irritated scalp, shedding, split ends… it’s a fact: hair gives us plenty to worry about, and some questions come up more often than others. So of course we fret, we talk about it, we pick up tips here and there without ever being quite sure we’re doing the right thing – and there are definitely some bits of advice and old wives’ tales we could do without. Here’s a little guidance on looking after your hair according to its current or usual state, plus a clearer look at how the scalp works and, by extension, the hair itself.

My scalp is itchy.

An itchy scalp – sometimes with flakes, even shortly after washing, and in some cases redness – is a sign of a stressed, overworked scalp. There can be many causes: intense tiredness, a diet lacking in nutrients, the wrong hair products, pollution…

To help, start by choosing a soothing scalp treatment that works directly on the scalp. Some specialist brands offer these, including Davines and René Furterer.

Likewise, avoid putting your hair through the wringer for a while: skip blow-dries, as the heat from a hairdryer is irritating to the scalp, and don’t overdo colour, bleach and similar treatments.

Remember, too, that a balanced diet and healthy hair go hand in hand. Some foods are especially good for the hair fibre: animal proteins, which help create keratin; vitamin B, found in large amounts in brewer’s yeast (sprinkle it on salads, soups and so on); and zinc, which seafood and liver are rich in.

If the itching persists, however, it’s advisable to see a dermatologist, who can check whether the problem has a completely different cause, such as an allergy, eczema, psoriasis or something else.

Am I imagining it, or is my hair thinning?

Thinning hair can also have various causes.

To start with, a natural one: age. Yes, with age the diameter of each hair can shrink, though how much varies from person to person. So it’s not abnormal if, at 40, your hair no longer has the thickness it did at 20.

To help counter this, there are products marketed as anti-ageing for hair. On their own, they cannot prevent hair from thinning over the long term.

Also remember to protect your hair day to day: hair that is looked after repays you over the years. Get into the habit of massaging your scalp regularly with your fingers, for example before shampooing: massaging the scalp can relax it and feel good. And protect your hair from aggressors that don’t forgive, especially the sun. In small doses, it has benefits for the skin on the body and scalp alike, but in excess it weakens the skin and the hair root – and watch out for shedding. Think hat and a protective sun spray.

Avoid cigarette smoke, invest in a protective cream to apply regularly to mid-lengths and ends and, again, look after your diet. An iron deficiency can be linked to hair loss; if in doubt, see a doctor.

Vitamin C also helps the body absorb iron, so combine these two essentials.

Can you get rid of split ends?

Contrary to what some adverts would have us believe, once a hair is split, it cannot be repaired. The only solution is a cut.

Treatments, hair oils, sprays and so on can be effective when used regularly, but to prevent split ends, not to make them disappear. If you’re attached to your length, take care of it.

Note, too, that split ends aren’t necessarily caused by blow-dries, colour, straightening and other harsh treatments: some women get split ends as soon as their hair reaches a certain length, without lots of handling. The strength of hair depends on its quality, and we’re not all equal when it comes to hair strength.

To finish, contrary to a common belief, cutting your hair doesn’t make it stronger or grow faster: hair is very different from plants, because it grows from the root. That said, there’s nothing like a trim every 2 to 3 months to even it up, get rid of split ends and refresh a style.

I wash greasy hair every day – good or bad?

There have been all sorts of warnings about washing hair too often, but the fact is that a greasy scalp is, on the one hand, not a good look (impossible to turn up at work with hair that shines) and, on the other, needs regular hygiene: frequent, gentle shampooing can help limit excess sebum and scalp discomfort.

The key is to choose a suitable shampoo – that is, a very gentle one – so it doesn’t upset the scalp. A treatment shampoo can be tried to space out washes, but its effect on sebum production is uncertain. It’s better not to use it for every wash, to avoid it losing effectiveness or causing the opposite effect if used too often.

The ideal is therefore to alternate a gentle neutral shampoo and a treatment shampoo, while avoiding washing if you can wait a little longer.

Worth knowing: as a precaution, limit high heat on a greasy or irritated scalp.

Hair loss: what should I do?

We all lose a few hairs every day: normal daily shedding is considered to be up to 100 hairs. That said, there are periods when shedding is heavier, often in autumn, for example, so between finding hair on your pillow, in the shower, on your brush and on your jumper, you end up worrying and wondering how much will be left by the end of winter.

Some people use food supplements, but whether they help depends on any deficiencies and should be discussed with a healthcare professional.

If shedding is excessive and continues, it’s better to see your dermatologist or GP: stress, dietary deficiencies, pregnancy… can all cause ‘abnormal’ hair loss.

My colour fades too quickly!

Your hairdresser has probably explained it: how well colour lasts depends mainly on the condition of your hair. If hair is dry and damaged, the colour tends to dull very quickly, leaving lacklustre hair and sometimes a completely altered shade.

To avoid this, the ideal is still regular, careful care: a hair oil treatment, conditioner and shampoo for coloured hair. Again, remember to protect your hair from sun and chlorine, as there’s nothing worse for killing a colour.

Finally, some salon brands offer pigment-based shampoos, which they blend themselves according to your colour. These shampoos are used once a week to maintain colour.

Budget

On the budget side, a gentle or treatment shampoo from a pharmacy or online pharmacy usually sits between £8 and £25, depending on size and brand, bearing in mind that specialist scalp-care ranges (such as René Furterer or Davines) tend to be at the top of that range. For a soothing scalp treatment, expect to pay between £12 and £30. A course of food supplements for hair and nails is around £18 to £35 per month, depending on the length of the course and pack size. As for pigmented shampoos offered in salon, they often exceed £18. These ranges vary from retailer to retailer, depending on promotions and ingredients: it’s best to compare before you buy.

Food supplements do not replace a varied, balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle.