Winter make-up: retro is back!

Tuesday, 7.40am. You have three minutes in front of the mirror before the school run, and that is when retro can feel terrifying: a wonky eyeliner flick cannot be fixed in 30 seconds. The good news? This winter's trend does not ask you to relearn everything. It goes back to the basics — a graphic eye, a red lip, a clean complexion — and those steps flow without a hitch when you do them in the right order. Tested on a weekday morning, stopwatch in hand.

The eyeliner flick: the backbone of the look

It is the foundation of the look: a line along the upper lid that opens up the eye. You want a smooth line, fine at the inner corner, thicker at the outer corner. Take your time. To correct a wobble, a slightly damp cotton bud works wonders — as long as you get to it before the ink sets.

Resist the urge to pull the flick too far out: beyond a few millimetres, you tip into fancy dress. In real life, today's retro flick stops exactly in line with the outer corner, sometimes with a small upturned tick.

As for tools, a fine-tipped pen or brush pen will save you a lot of grief. Documented, but not tested this season: Shiseido MicroLiner Ink, whose ultra-fine tip suits this gradual build-up. Refillable alternatives are still rare: here, the compromise is a felt-tip that lasts.

Eyeshadow in a supporting role

Once the line is in place, a touch of light eyeshadow is enough to make the whole look more polished. Violet, brown, grey or gold: choose according to your eye colour and the light of the season.

Sweep it over the rest of the mobile lid and take it slightly above the crease. Under the brow, forget dark shades: a beige or discreet flesh tone gives structure without weighing the eye down. The more vivid the mouth, the more the eye stays clean.

When it comes to formulas, powders in glass pots and refillable palettes help reduce plastic. Check the label: Cosmos Organic or Ecocert govern how much of the formula can be natural and organic.

Carmine lipstick, without the cracked lips

Carmine is back in a big way and wakes up a tired winter complexion. Before you even think about colour, prep your lips: red lipstick can be a little drying, and on damaged lips it catches every flake and looks cracked. A gentle scrub — sugar and honey, or a shop-bought exfoliating balm — then a layer of balm, and you're back to a smooth base.

For application, start with a lip pencil in the exact shade of your lipstick. Follow the outline without going over it, then fill in the centre, using a brush if that helps you stay neat. Gloss that spills over the outer edge? Not for me: with a bright red, the effect quickly turns messy.

Final step: press your lips once onto a tissue. It removes the excess and the colour settles into the fine lines. Clarins lipsticks are known for their comfort — documented, not tested across the whole range. If you want to reduce your impact, know that refillable solid formats are growing: you only repurchase the bullet, and the wear is good.

Complexion: polished, never pale

With a strong eye and a vivid lip, the base stays discreet — but not pale.

Choose a foundation that matches your complexion, as close as possible to your skin, and apply it in a thin layer, only where it is needed. Its job is not to colour you, but to even things out and blur irregularities. A foundation like Estée Lauder Double Wear, which I have used for years: it does the job, but it covers a lot — use it sparingly.

For a healthy glow, an apricot or pink blush depending on your complexion, on the cheekbones and then in very light touches on the temples. A fine veil of translucent powder sets everything without a mask effect.

Then there is concealer. Tap, do not spread: under the eyes and around the sides of the nose, a few touches are enough to brighten shadowy areas. Formulas with plant oils work well here.

Three minutes, stopwatch in hand

If you really do not have time, keep three things: a clean eyeliner flick, a carmine lip, a unified base. The rest can wait until tomorrow. Retro does not demand perfection — just that you own the flick.

Budget

Expect to pay around £7–£26 for a felt-tip eyeliner, £17–£34 for a fine-tipped branded pen, £4–£21 for a single eyeshadow, £21–£51 for a refillable palette (you then only buy refills), £7–£30 for a lipstick, £4–£17 for a lip pencil, £9–£38 for a foundation, £7–£30 for a blush, £9–£30 for a concealer and £7–£26 for a translucent powder.

These ranges shift depending on the city, the brand and the format: cheaper at a pharmacy than in a city-centre beauty hall, more expensive upfront for a solid or refillable format, less expensive over time. You'll find the essentials in supermarkets, beauty retailers, pharmacies and online; organic brands in specialist shops.

Sources

• Shiseido official product page, MicroLiner Ink (shiseido.com).
• Estée Lauder official product page, Double Wear (esteelauder.com).
• Clarins official lipstick pages (clarins.com).