Ten one-piece swimsuits: proof they're anything but dreary

Last week, a reader wrote to me: 'I dug out a one-piece swimsuit I bought ten years ago, and I felt old in it.' I asked her for a photo. Wide straps, straight cut, matte fabric, zero cut-outs: in truth, it wasn't she who was ageing, it was that swimsuit. So we're revisiting the subject, because the one-piece has changed so much that we still judge a whole category by the most sensible styles on the rail.

Young woman in profile in a plain black one-piece swimsuit, large studio with beige draping

An honest note before we go further: I haven't tested any of these styles in the sea or in a pool. These are documented profiles, not a test. So I can talk to you about cut, material and care — not about how they perform in the water.

Woman in a black one-piece swimsuit with multicoloured butterflies, pleated bustier, on a terrace

What has changed in ten years

The one-piece long carried a reputation as a covering, slightly sad swimsuit, reserved for women who no longer wanted to show much. Why does that label still stick to it? Because we remember the image of the sensible style, the one found in a pile at the back of the rail, and forget everything else.

Young woman in profile in a black one-piece swimsuit in textured fabric, in front of a window

What changed the game? Cut-outs first: cut-out waists, scooped backs, panels. Then details: metal rings, knots, pearls, fine tie straps. And above all materials, with more compressive fibres and linings that support the silhouette without cinching a stomach you'd rather not squeeze. The result: today the one-piece plays the same tune as the bikini, with a freedom of movement you appreciate when you spend the day chasing after a three-year-old!

Woman sitting by the sea in a pale pink and grey floral one-piece swimsuit

The ten, one by one

1. The monochrome with a ring

A bright pink, an orange, a yellow, a decorative ring at the front, bare back. The cut stays simple, the detail does all the work — and the colour works for you, without a single complicated seam. It's the kind of piece you slip on without thinking and it does the job.

Young blonde woman in an orange one-piece swimsuit with a gold ring, walking on the sand at the water's edge

2. The romantic print

Multicoloured butterflies or small flowers on a black background, removable straps, pleated bustier defined at the waist. Very feminine, a little retro. Removable straps are clever when you want to vary your tan lines without packing multiple swimsuits — provided they hold well; we'll come back to that below.

Young Black woman in a black one-piece swimsuit printed with multicoloured butterflies, pleated bustier

3. The pale floral

Pale pink and grey floral on white, V-neckline, tie to fasten around the bust. Some labels have worked this look for years. A print that forgives a lot, ideal if you want to soften a silhouette without giving up the open neckline.

Young Asian woman sitting by the sea in a pale pink and grey floral one-piece swimsuit

4. The signature minimal

Strapless, contrasting bandeau, large bow at the back. It has become a classic of its kind. Fans of less-but-better will find what they need: one clean line, one simple gesture, and the back carries the whole piece.

Young woman seen from behind in a strapless one-piece swimsuit, contrasting bandeau and large bow

5. The deep brown

Chocolate or taupe, utterly understated, lifted by a ring between the cups and shiny details on the straps. Discreet from a distance, polished up close. This is the swimsuit for summers when you don't want it to be the only thing people look at.

Young woman sitting by the pool in a chocolate one-piece swimsuit with a gold ring

6. The graphic cut-out

Floral print on a black background, plunging neckline, knots at the hips. Often available in several prints and sold direct by the brand. Graphic as you like, but hip knots can leave marks: best reserved for figures that like that strong shape.

Young woman on a pontoon in a black floral-print one-piece swimsuit with knots at the hips

7. The psychedelic retro

Navy and white, fine straps to tie behind the neck, a pearl between the cups. A style you can repurpose as an evening top with shorts or a skirt — the most versatile piece of the lot. Note that neck-tie straps take some getting used to, especially if you stay standing for a long time.

Young woman on a sailing boat in a navy and white one-piece swimsuit with neck-tie straps

8. The cut-out

Open back and hips, bust highlighted, ring details. It is the most suggestive cut — and the least forgiving of a badly chosen cup size. If you're between sizes, take your bust size; we'll come back to that below.

Young woman in three-quarter back view in a black cut-out one-piece swimsuit with rings, on a terrace

9. The illusion two-piece

Midriff and hips exposed, beaded details at the navel, bright colour. It flatters tanned skin, provided you like being on show. One tip: cut-out areas pull, so it's better to be comfortable with the cut before falling for the colour.

Young woman standing in the water in a fuchsia one-piece swimsuit with two-piece-style cut-outs

10. The black crystal

Bustier top, bare hips, back constructed like a two-piece. The understatement of black, the sparkle of crystals: the statement piece you save for an occasion, or even for the evening after your swim.

Young woman in three-quarter back view in a fitting room, black crystal-embellished one-piece swimsuit with bustier top

Three questions to ask yourself in the fitting room, without rushing.

Woman seen from behind in an ivory strapless one-piece swimsuit, large bow at the back

One: when you raise your arms, does the panel ride up? Two: does the removable strap hold when you swim, not just when you pose? Three: does the fabric dry quickly? A swimsuit that stays damp for three hours will ruin the end of your day more surely than one that is slightly tight.

Woman walking on the sand in a coral one-piece swimsuit with a ring, open back
Woman sitting by a pool in a chocolate one-piece swimsuit with a gold ring
Woman on a pontoon in a navy and white one-piece swimsuit with tie straps
Woman in a fitting room, arms raised in front of the mirror, black bustier one-piece swimsuit with sparkling details

Budget

On budget, the gaps are huge, and not always justified by quality. At supermarkets or sports retailers, expect to pay around £13 to £35 for a decent one-piece swimsuit, with fabrics that last a season or two. In mid-market lingerie and swimwear — lingerie brands, independent labels, specialist online shops — you're looking more at £45 to £105: this is where you find the best-cut styles and true cup sizes. At designer labels, expect £130 to £300, sometimes more.

These ranges shift according to city, range and season: out of season and at the end of summer, the same styles drop noticeably. Second-hand is still an option, provided you check the elastic — it's the first thing to go. And think about alterations: taking in the sides often costs between £9 and £22 at a tailor, for a transformed fit.

On materials, a swimsuit that lasts is first a question of composition: classic synthetic fibres still dominate, but more and more pieces use recycled polyamide or fibres made from fishing nets. The certification to look for is GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for the recycled content; it guarantees the traceability of a portion of the yarn, not the swimsuit's performance. As for dyeing and UV-protection treatments, they vary hugely from one manufacturer to another, so trust what is actually printed on the label rather than a shop-window claim.

The step that changes everything

Sizing first. A one-piece swimsuit is chosen according to your bra size for the bust and your trouser size for the hips. When the two don't match, take your bust size and have the sides taken in — a tailor can do it in a few minutes for a modest cost.

Care next, because that's where swimsuits die: rinse in fresh water after every swim, without detergent, and dry flat in the shade. Chlorine and salt attack elastic fibres; sunlight and the tumble dryer finish the job.

Then there's the real question: one-piece or two-piece? There is no right answer, only different body shapes and different days. The one-piece no longer has anything to prove next to a bikini — you just have to find the right one, and on that day, you wonder why you waited ten years to dig it out again!