The necklace is in the top drawer, between a chain that tangles itself and a ring whose origin you've forgotten. You lay it over a black turtleneck, look in the mirror, and it's your aunt at a 1998 New Year's Eve party looking back. Putting it back in the drawer would be a shame: this is exactly the kind of jewellery worth trying again with an everyday outfit.

Pearls are back, with a more relaxed feel

The spring/summer 2027 collections are already starting to appear, and the message is clear: pearls are back. Except they aren't back on best behaviour. They're baroque, irregular, sometimes set on a fine chain, sometimes a single pearl slipped onto a chain. The baroque strand — pearls without that perfect roundness — is the quickest route to a modern look, precisely because it looks as if it was picked up on a beach.

The reality is that this kind of pearl works with what you already wear. Raw denim, a grey sweatshirt, a trench, a slightly crumpled white shirt: the contrast between mother-of-pearl and cotton does the work. It's the same principle as a pair of gold hoops with an all-black outfit — one detail lifts the whole thing. You don't need a dress or an occasion.

Taking the long necklace out of Sunday-best territory

The long sautoir, the one that sits below the bust, is often the hardest to reintroduce. The solution is a simple gesture: double it around your neck for a mid-length strand, or tie a knot halfway down to break the line. Worn over a fine, plain jumper, it loses its christening-jewel air. Worn over an open shirt, it becomes almost an office accessory — in a good way.

A woman knots a long pearl necklace at mid-length over an open white shirt
The knot breaks the line and changes how the necklace reads

Another route: mix it up. A pearl strand with a fine silver chain, or with a pendant necklace you already wear, and the whole thing changes status. Layering works if the lengths are staggered: a choker, a mid-length, a long sautoir. And if all three overlap in the same place? You get a knot and an urge to take everything off.

For earrings, there's no need to bring out a cluster. A single pearl on each ear, quite large, has more impact — and it's the simplest version to wear with a high collar or hair tied back.

Length dictates the look

A choker brightens a V-neck but smothers a turtleneck. A long sautoir, meanwhile, lengthens the silhouette and works better on a matte fabric than on shiny silk, where the reflections compete. To find the right length, check that the last pearl falls above or at the sternum, not in the hollow of your stomach. If you're unsure, try it in the mirror with the clothes you'll wear tomorrow morning — not with the evening dress that comes out twice a year.

From behind, a baroque pearl strand falls at sternum level over a thick cream knit
The last pearl should land at the sternum, no lower

As for materials, cotton, wool and linen get on well with mother-of-pearl. A thick, textured knit shows off the pearl; too fine a knit makes it disappear. Conversely, a busy print and a pearl strand cancel each other out: two leads on the same stage, and nobody listens.

Three habits to avoid damaging pearls: put them on last, after perfume and moisturiser; avoid rubbing against fastenings and chains; store them flat in a pouch, never hanging. A pearl is worn on the skin, not under running water.

Budget: what a strand that lasts costs

Freshwater pearls, meanwhile, remain accessible. As a rough UK guide, expect to pay around £25 to £65 for a pair of baroque pearl earrings, and around £55 to £180 for a freshwater pearl necklace, depending on size and regularity. Beyond that, you're into more calibrated cultured pearls, often from around £250 — a purchase to think about, not a midweek impulse buy.

Where to look? Local jewellers and independent makers on online marketplaces often offer baroque strands at reasonable prices. Second-hand is a good option: around £15 to £70 for an older necklace in good condition, provided you check the clasp and the state of the thread. An older strand can be restrung at a jeweller, at a price that varies from one jeweller to another — a way of giving it a second life, more personal than a necklace bought new. It's a good find for anyone who wants a pearl that already has a story.

Try it now, not just for an occasion

Pearls have never demanded that you dress up. They just ask to be worn as everyday jewellery, with a turtleneck, jeans and a bit of confidence. Take out the long necklace, double it, try it with today's outfit: that's often where you discover it works very well with real life.