Swimwear: a fashion vintage

While sorting through a box of holiday photos, I came across my swimsuit from a summer gone by: gold sequins, a bandeau top, high-waisted briefs. I dug it out again last summer, actually wore it, and it still held up. That vintage had one thing going for it: it never apologised for being fashion!

Back then, the beach was a runway. Brands rolled out sequins, stripes and cut-outs, and luxury e-tailers set the tone. A few seasons on, we keep the ideas and ditch the pitfalls: the swimsuit that itches, the one that goes see-through at the first plunge, the one you can't actually swim in. So what does this vintage look like? Softer fabrics, cleaner cuts and a real demand for support. We've looked at what's coming into the collections, and what deserves a place in your capsule wardrobe.

Shine, from sequins to lamé

It's the trend that keeps coming back strongest, season after season. Heavy hand-sewn sequins have given way to lamé and metallic textures, seen at Oséree as well as several swim houses. Its trick? It catches the light without weighing down the silhouette, provided you choose a simple cut: a one-piece with tie shoulders, a triangle with fine straps. In practice, the watch point hasn't changed one bit: without a lining, sequins irritate the skin under the arm and mark the bust. Check the inside of the swimsuit before you buy — that's where comfort is decided!

Three-quarter view of a young woman in a lamé swimsuit lifting the strap to look at the lining, in a fitting room
Without a lining, sequins irritate: check the inside before buying

Stripes and cut-outs, the safe bet

Multicoloured stripes and cut-outs are two recipes that haven't aged a day. You'll find them at Calzedonia and on the high street, in one-pieces and bikinis, and this is often where the support-to-price ratio is best. A useful marker for judging the drape: a cut-out is well placed when the elastic doesn't mark the skin and doesn't gape when you raise your arms. If the edge curls up at the first try-on, it will curl up in the water too!

Young Black woman with arms raised in a striped cut-out one-piece, testing whether the elastic marks the skin
Arms raised: the elastic should neither mark nor gape

Two-tone and extra-fine ties

It's hard to be more fashion in spirit than the clean-lined two-tone by Eres. The French house is still here, and so is the principle: little fabric, plenty of precision in the cut, a look that rests on almost nothing. Extra-fine ties at the bust or hips remain the detail that changes everything — provided you accept that they are unforgiving on support. Always try them while squatting; that's where everything shows.

Back view of a young Asian woman tying the extra-fine straps of a black and cream two-tone swimsuit
The clean-lined two-tone is all about precision of cut

Sport, prints and textures

On the sporty side, floral-print bandeaus and wide straps are still going strong: Rip Curl, among others, remains a safe bet when you really want to swim. Missoni continues to work stripes and knit, La Perla crisp navy, Zimmermann graphic cut-outs. Good news: crochet and towelling are settling into the collections, for a texture that catches the light differently. A statement piece that's easy to accessorise — an open linen shirt over a one-piece, and you have an effortless holiday look.

Want to swim? Check the label: sport swimsuits often show a UV protection rating (UPF), and a wide strap holds better than a simple triangle. Cut-outs remain a collection staple, but not all are equal depending on your shape.

On materials, recycled polyamide and elastane have become collection regulars, but the eco argument only holds if the lining follows suit and the piece lasts several seasons. A swimsuit that lasts several summers is worth more than a recycled one that gives up after a few swims!

Three habits that save a delicate swimsuit: rinse it in fresh water after every swim (the gesture that changes everything), dry it flat in the shade, forget the tumble dryer. Sequins, beads and lamé always come loose faster than elastane stretches. And to keep a piece in your wardrobe from one season to the next, end-of-season sales and second-hand remain the best hunting grounds.

Transparency: I haven't tried the designer pieces mentioned here; the pointers given come from the official collections.

Budget

The gaps are huge for comparable products.

  • Expect around £13 to £30: supermarkets and fashion retailers. Fine for a season, lining hit-and-miss.
  • Expect around £30 to £70: lingerie chains and swimwear specialists. Often the best support-to-price ratio.
  • Expect around £70 to £130: technical surf and swim brands, designed for swimming.
  • Expect around £170 and above: designer houses. The price comes down to cut, lining and make, rarely the logo.

What changes the bill: the material (lamé is more delicate than polyamide-elastane), the lining, the make, the size. Summer and winter sales, outlets and second-hand can bring prices down, sometimes sharply. In September, end-of-season collections are often heavily reduced. Conversely, an unusual size costs full price in peak season. You'll find all this in supermarkets, at lingerie chains, on brand websites, in outlets or on resale platforms.

Sources

  • Official websites of the brands and retailers mentioned: Eres, La Perla, Zimmermann, Rip Curl, Missoni, Oséree, Calzedonia.
  • Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council on textile fibre names and labelling of textile products.
  • European Commission: consumer information on textile labelling and garment care.