Tuesday evening, third shop of the day, two lipsticks in my left hand, and that same hesitation. Which of the two told the story of the season better? After a while, I realised they both did, just not in the same voice.
Autumn's beauty aisle has been playing out in two camps that cheerfully ignore each other for weeks now. On one side, a maximalism that owns everything, colour included. On the other, a pared-back approach that says little and does a lot. Which way do you lean?
Maximalism, no apologies
Shades that ask no one's permission. Saturated shadows, blush built up in several passes, glossy finishes, cream textures that leave a mark on the finger. Nothing timid about it, and that's exactly what I like: this direction doesn't cheat. The colour shows on the skin, and it shows in the palette too.
A real advantage when you order online without being able to touch the product — and the real reason the testers on these displays are always the most battered in the aisle. You want to check, feel, swatch. Fair enough.
Watch out for a classic trap, though: the colour packs a punch on first swipe, but will it last a working day? I don't have a definitive answer, and I'd rather tell you that. With saturated textures, the move that changes everything is still a thin layer applied with a finger and then blurred. Two light passes beat one thick block — even if, let's admit it, the urge to go all in is strong in front of such a pretty pot.
Pared back, refined this time
Against that, the other camp bets on restraint: shorter formulas, sheer shades, satin finishes, fluid textures you barely feel on the skin.
Not a step backwards, more another way of working with texture: instead of piling up, you layer. A light base, a little colour in the crease, a barely tinted lip. The result is noticeable up close, not from afar — and there's something very elegant in that restraint.
The catch, as you'd expect? These products are often more expensive per gram, with smaller sizes. If you use them right to the end, the maths works out fine. If you forget them in a drawer after three weeks, much less so.
Where the two camps meet
There are a handful of pieces that work both ways, and these are the ones I'd look at first if I were spending wisely this season.
A cream blush, sheer if you tap it on, dense if you press it in with a finger. A volume mascara: enough to really change a face, whatever the trend! A tinted balm, perfect on a rushed morning, decent over a more polished lip. A fine base, which lets colour through when you wear it and skin texture through when you don't.
These are basics, not statement pieces — and that's exactly what makes them worth it in a makeup wardrobe. You reach for them, use them up, buy them again. They're the kind of piece you never regret.
A word on criteria, because they matter as much as the shade. Solid and refillable formats are moving fast in these categories: pressed powders, cardboard balms, glass cases you refill. Cosmos Organic or Ecocert labels certify a minimum share of naturally derived ingredients and a charter on manufacturing processes; they do not guarantee wear or efficacy, which is judged on your skin. And not all refills are equal: a plastic refill in a case you abandon after a year doesn't solve much. If a conventional mascara suits you better, so be it for the eco box-ticking — the product you finish is always lower-impact than the one you neglect.
Three questions at the tester, in under a minute: does this shade go with at least three things I already own? Can I apply it in five minutes on a Tuesday morning? Will I still use it in February? Two yeses out of three, and it's worth thinking about seriously. One, and put it back.
Budget
Expect to pay around £10 to £25 for a cream blush in a supermarket or beauty hall, and more like £25 to £40 from a luxury brand. A volume mascara is often £9 to £30, a tinted balm £7 to £25, and a light base £13 to £40.
These ranges move quite a bit: the high street doesn't show supermarket prices, size changes the cost per gram, and solid or refillable formats sometimes cost a little more on first purchase. Where to find them? Supermarkets and beauty halls for the classics, pharmacies and online beauty retailers for shorter formulas, independent brands online or in store for the rest. Refills usually cost less than the full container, provided the brand keeps the same case over time — which isn't always the case.
How to decide according to your style
Maximalism and pared-back beauty aren't really opposites: they answer two different moods, and you can carry both in your bag.
If your makeup happens in three minutes between the front door and the hall mirror, pared-back is your camp. If you love the moment when you settle in front of the mirror, music up and ten minutes to yourself, maximalism will speak to you more.
One last thing, true on both sides: texture matters more than colour. A badly formulated saturated shade that drags or settles into lines won't do better than a well-thought-out nude. Before you fall for a name or packaging, swatch the product on the back of your hand and wait thirty seconds. Your skin answers faster than any sales pitch.
Chloe's verdict: this season, choose a direction, but keep one piece from the other camp. That's often where the best looks are born.
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