You'll have noticed it by now: men's fashion no longer plays out on the catwalk alone. It reads on the street, on a red carpet, outside a gig, in the queue for a coffee. And on certain people, there's that extra bit of character that changes everything.

What follows is a set of looks spotted over the past few months. These are observations, not outfits I've tested piece by piece — worth saying upfront. But the lessons are simple, and you could put them to work tomorrow morning.

Tailoring thrown over raw denim

The cleanest formula? A slightly oversized suit jacket, a plain white tee, raw denim jeans, low-top sneakers. It looks simple, and yet it takes real restraint. In practice, the most tailored piece has to stay the quietest one — otherwise the contrast tips over into fancy dress.

Man sitting on a front step, oversized grey wool blazer over a white tee, raw denim jeans and worn low-top sneakers
One tailored piece, worn without ceremony over raw denim

Other men play the same tune, with a leaning towards raw materials and loose cuts. With them, the elegance comes down to how the trousers fall, never to a stack of logos. That's the whole difference between a look and a shop window.

Close-up of the cuff of an oversized wool jacket sitting over indigo raw denim
The fall of the blazer does all the work, with not a single logo in sight

Just starting out? Pick one strong piece and keep everything else in neutral tones. A good pair of jeans and a well-cut tee are often enough.

Young man sitting on a low wall, oversized beige blazer over a white tee, dark raw denim jeans and low-top sneakers
The tailored piece stays the quietest one: that's the whole recipe

Streetwear moving upmarket

Part of luxury streetwear seems to be shifting towards more craft and less showing off. Some mix street pieces with couture with rare confidence. Others own a very personal look without ever tipping into costume.

What changes everything? The fabric. An oversized knitted wool overshirt, wide pleated trousers, a grey marl sweatshirt: nothing spectacular on paper, and yet the texture does all the work. A garment that falls properly doesn't need a slogan to get noticed.

Man seen from behind walking away, oversized knitted wool overshirt over a long white tee, wide pleated trousers and a canvas bag
Artisanal streetwear is about the fabric, not the showing off

The common thread running through these looks? A clear hierarchy: one statement piece, everything else in support. That's the move that makes the difference, and it doesn't cost a penny.

Young mixed-heritage man in an oversized burgundy wool coat, grey sweatshirt and black trousers, in a contemporary art courtyard
One strong piece, everything else in support: the hierarchy is what makes the style

So why do so many men still hesitate to wear one strong piece? Often for fear of what other people will think. And yet that's exactly what creates the difference.

Man sitting in profile, oversized grey marl sweatshirt and wide pleated trousers, the texture of the fabric clearly visible
A marl knit, a wide pleat: nothing spectacular, all in the fall
Young Black man walking at dusk, short leather jacket over a long denim shirt, wide trousers and worn boots
Owning a very personal silhouette without tipping into costume

Jewellery, headwear and finishing touches

On the rock side: the bandana, tinted glasses, stacked rings and necklaces, worn boots. On paper, the whole lot could tip over into too much. And yet it works — because it's all owned with consistency.

Fine rings and layered necklaces do seem to be gaining visibility among men, too. A simple trick: keep to two or three pieces per zone of the body, let them live together, and keep the rest of the outfit plain. Layering accessories is like layering clothes — you build it, you don't just pile it on at random.

Léna's rule of thumb. Before you buy a statement piece, check it works with at least three outfits already in your wardrobe. If it doesn't, it'll stay on the hanger. Better a piece you actually wear than a purchase you regret.

Latino man wearing a dark red bandana, amber tinted glasses and stacked fine rings, adjusting his collar
Bandana, tinted glasses, fine rings: consistency is what keeps the excess in check
Young man in a bright dressing room adjusting an oversized camel wool jacket, white tee and dark jeans
One well-placed detail is enough to sign off the whole look
Minimal portrait with a wool blazer, white tee, raw denim jeans and leather boots
Fewer pieces, chosen better, worn more often

Budget

On the money side, there's no need to go for the full look at once. Expect to pay somewhere around £15–40 for a plain, well-cut tee, £60–150 for a decent pair of raw denim jeans, and £150–400 for a classic ready-to-wear suit jacket. Budget £70–150 for low-top sneakers. On jewellery — fine rings, necklaces — you're looking at roughly £20–80 per piece, and that opens up quickly if you move upmarket; leather boots, meanwhile, run to around £100–250.

What pushes the price up? Location first: city-centre shops often charge more than out-of-town ones or stores in smaller regional towns. Then the material — certified organic cotton, a wool that holds its shape, full-grain leather all cost more than a synthetic blend, but they age completely differently. Brand plays a part, obviously. And above all, how you look after things: a neutral piece with good structure, worn a hundred times, works out cheaper than a logo worn ten times and then forgotten at the back of the wardrobe.

To kit yourself out, you can trawl charity shops and resale sites — the best way to get your hands on good material without blowing a month's wages — or look to the high street, multi-brand retailers, department stores for costume jewellery, or order online. If you go down the online route, check the returns policy before you hit checkout.

What to take away

A good look isn't about budget. It's about intention: a controlled contrast, a cut that sits right, an accessory in the right place. The men in this selection don't share one style, not by a long chalk. But they all have that ability to own their choices without overdoing it. That's probably the only rule worth having, and it works for a capsule wardrobe too: fewer pieces, chosen better, worn more often.

So where do you start? A jacket, a necklace, a pair of sneakers? It doesn't matter, as long as you stay true to one clear direction. Léna's verdict: yes — provided you keep to a single strong piece and leave the rest in support. We like that freedom. And you?