You've dug your pencil skirt out of the wardrobe and you're still hesitating? Now's the moment. At Diane von Furstenberg, retro-chic has never meant fancy dress. The Belgian designer, based in New York since the 1970s, built her house on pieces that genuinely get worn — starting with her wrap dress, created in the mid-1970s and still doing the rounds very nicely on the resale market.

Printed DVF wrap dress folded on an armchair, sewn-in label visible
The vintage wrap dress, found second-hand and ready to wear again
Woman taking a wool pencil skirt out of a wardrobe in the morning
First step: dig the pencil skirt out of the wardrobe, without buying anything new

The foundation: a clean line, the right fabric, a belt

The retro-chic look starts with a readable silhouette. The tailored suit comes first: a short jacket with soft rounded edges and subtly puffed sleeves. Underneath, a fluid blouse — floral or plain — breaks up the severity. The drape matters more than the print: a supple fabric that follows the body without clinging makes all the difference.

Product-style image inspired by the Ceinture Fine Noire Femme — Cuir Véritable (2.4 cm wide, smooth buckle)
Illustrative image based on the product's official photo
Short DVF jacket with puffed sleeves worn over a fluid blouse
The short jacket with soft rounded edges, worn over a fluid blouse
Close-up of a fluid blouse draping under a short wool jacket
It's the drape of the fabric, more than the print, that makes the silhouette

The belt, then, does all the work. Worn high, almost under the bust, it redraws the waist without cinching. A matt black ribbon belt over an emerald blouse is enough to rebalance the silhouette. If you keep only one, choose it slim and matt.

Slim matt black belt worn high over an emerald silk blouse
A slim matt belt, placed very high, is enough to rebalance everything
Hands adjusting a slim matt black belt at the top of an emerald green blouse
The slim belt worn high redraws the waist without cinching
Woman seen from behind in a mirror, adjusting the high belt of her wrap dress
Five minutes in front of the mirror is enough to sort the line

Not convinced? Try it in front of a mirror — five minutes is enough.

Three slim matt belts on a wooden chest of drawers
One rule for the belt: fine, matt, worn very high

Pencil skirt, voluminous skirt: pick your side

The pencil skirt returns every autumn, and at DVF it is often cut in a soft wool. Two combinations work: a short cardigan belted high, or a dark top with a lingerie feel. On shoes, forget the mandatory heel — a lace-up court shoe or a cut-out ankle boot lengthens the leg without torturing your feet.

Young mixed-race woman in a wool pencil skirt and short high-belted cardigan
The soft wool pencil skirt, worn with a short belted cardigan

Organza, meanwhile, plays a different tune. Ruffled and voluminous, it calls for a well-fitted top. Again, a belt under the bust reins in the volume. It's the kind of outfit that leaves little room for error, but it makes an impression.

Voluminous organza skirt worn with a fitted top and high belt
Organza calls for a well-fitted top and a belt under the bust

Quick outfit formulas, from desk to dinner

Wide high-waisted trousers, a borrowed man's jacket, a graphic top: the masculine-feminine mix remains unbeatable. Add a bold colour — bright red, blue — or checks, and the full look comes alive.

Young woman in high-waisted wide-leg trousers and an oversized borrowed jacket in a bright hall
Wide trousers and a borrowed jacket: the masculine-feminine mix that works

For work, the perfect dress exists: blouse top, high-waisted wool skirt falling at the knee. It works with your court shoes or your boots, depending on the season. Simple, elegant, without trying too hard!

Dress with a blouse top and high-waisted wool skirt worn in the office
Blouse top, high-waisted wool skirt: the dress that goes anywhere

And if everything feels too busy, go back to the little black dress. Well fitted, neither too short nor too long. Accessorise it according to your day. Full stop.

Fitted little black dress worn with a slim belt in the evening
When everything feels too busy, the little black dress resets the count

The move that changes everything — Before buying anything, take three forgotten pieces out of your wardrobe: a belt, a short cardigan, a straight skirt. Often the outfit is already there; it just needs a small tweak!

Printed DVF wrap dress worn under a trench coat, in the street
A well-cut piece, a high belt: the look follows effortlessly

Budget

On the budget front, there's no need to go designer to try the formula. Expect to pay around £35 to £80 for a wool-blend pencil skirt on the high street, and £130 to £350 if you move up a level. A fluid blouse can be found for between £20 and £60 on the high street or online. For a slim matt belt, £13 to £35 in leather from a leather goods shop, sometimes less in faux leather. A tailored short jacket starts at around £70 and climbs beyond £220 depending on fabric and cut.

Good news: second-hand changes the equation. A vintage DVF wrap dress often goes for between £70 and £175 on resale platforms, sometimes less depending on condition and size. Check the seams, the composition label and wear under the arms before you commit.

Price also varies by location and care — dry-clean-only wool is not maintained like a machine-washable blend.

The takeaway

The retro-chic look doesn't require buying everything anew. It asks for clean cuts, a well-placed belt and one or two modern details. The rest is imagination — and a little time in front of the mirror. Pick a piece, wear it your way, and the look follows!