The box is open on the bed, the suede crochet pair is waiting for a verdict, and you are torn between 'Indian summer' and 'impulse buy'. Crochet, once filed alongside beach bags, is back this season with a thicker weave and genuine ambitions as an autumn shoe. The question is whether this texture works, wears well and earns its price.

Suede gets a seasonal rethink

Suede crochet is not a cotton knit simply transposed. On the styles that get it right, strips or a cord of suede form an openwork lattice. The difference is immediate: the motif keeps crochet's sense of fun, but the material gives it weight, a firmer drape and a slight roughness that suits grey days very well. This is no longer a holiday accessory; it is a trainer that can take a wool coat and a cup of tea.

Close-up of the openwork weave on a caramel suede trainer
Suede strips: an openwork weave that keeps its texture

Why now? Because the classic suede trainer was beginning to feel repetitive in our wardrobes, and crochet adds what fashion likes to call texture: relief that changes everything without altering the silhouette. A pair of suede crochet trainers can stand in for the slightly flat white trainer on a Sunday evening, with just the right amount of eccentricity. Provided you like a visible pattern, because the weave is not hiding.

What a chunky weave does to the leg

A chunky weave is not especially kind to the leg line. Because it adds volume around the foot and ankle, it can cut the leg short if worn with cropped trousers or jeans that stop right at the shoe. With wide-leg trousers that fall over the shoe, however, it creates an interesting, almost sculptural block and avoids the tiny-feet effect. Slim jeans are less forgiving: a noticeable volume contrast, sometimes charming, often less so.

A pair of suede crochet trainers
Wide-leg trousers falling over the weave create a sculptural block

The practical rule? If you want to lengthen the leg, choose a colour close to your trousers and a weave that does not protrude too much at the side. If you want the shoe to be the statement piece, a lighter or more textured style will do the job. With a midi skirt, the right length lets the ankle breathe: not too much fabric, not too much bare skin.

How to handle rain, brushing and matting

Suede and rain are not enemies, but they are not best friends either. A November shower can mark the weave, especially on lighter areas, and direct radiator heat will not help. The reflex is to air-dry away from heat, then brush gently once the pair is completely dry. A suede protector spray, applied before wet days, can help, without turning the trainer into a work boot.

When it comes to matting, friction is the culprit. Wear the same pair every day and the weave compresses, the relief flattens, and the suede becomes smoother, sometimes shiny at the creases. A suede brush puts a little life back into the fibres. A specialist suede eraser minimises marks. Avoid wearing the same pair two days running if you can: letting the shoe breathe between outings does it a favour.

The right move: brush in the direction of the weave, without pressing as if you were tackling a grease stain. And store the pair away from direct sunlight, not in a sealed plastic bag.

What to spend

As a rough guide, mid-range suede crochet trainers on the UK high street tend to sit somewhere between £60 and £120. At this price, look at the lining, the sole and the quality of the finish: that is where longevity is decided. More structured styles, leather-lined or made in Europe, usually land closer to £130 to £250, sometimes more depending on the brand and the work that has gone into the weave.

Where to look? Shoe shops, concept stores, online, and second-hand if you are patient. A good tactic is to watch end-of-season sales, when textured styles often drop below their original price. But be wary of apparent bargains in thin suede: a weave that sags after three weeks is not a saving.

When the weave is worth it

Yes, it is worth a look if your wardrobe already has its basics and you want a pair to lift an all-one-colour outfit without falling back on the white trainer everyone else is wearing. It shines with wide-leg jeans, relaxed tailored trousers, a wool midi skirt or a short coat. For a daily commute in the rain, however, an open-weave pair prone to marks is not the most restful choice.

The right moment is often now: summer fabrics shift into felted versions, autumn collections bring in texture, and you can wear crochet without looking as if you have just come from the beach. If in doubt, start with an understated shade - camel, brown, black - and save the lighter style for later. A good buy is not the pair that shouts loudest; it is the pair you pull on, on a Sunday evening without thinking.