You open your wardrobe and your eye lands on the blazer you bought for a first interview. The shoulders suddenly look too wide, the drape a little sad. And yet this season it’s almost the piece everyone is digging out again. Between the jacket from five years ago and what’s coming down the collections, there’s a real gap — but not enough to send you out to replace your entire wardrobe. We look at what’s changed, what people are actually wearing, and what can be rescued.

Woman adjusting the rolled-up sleeve of a wool blazer near a window
A rolled-up sleeve, and yesterday’s cut feels right again

Tailoring: what’s actually changed

Autumn/winter tailoring has little to do with a banker’s suit any more. What’s shifting is the volume. Shoulders stay defined but are much less padded — you keep the line and lose the bulk. Jackets are getting shorter or decidedly longer, and trousers are dropping the slim fit for a more fluid, almost liquid drape. The silhouette should look sharp, not stiff.

Does that mean replacing your entire wardrobe? No, and that’s the good news. The move that changes everything is often just a hem and a cuff. A sleeve pushed up to just above the wrist, trousers cut clean at the ankle: a five-year-old piece can feel right again. A trip to the tailor can sometimes erase the fancy-dress effect for far less than a new jacket.

Young Latina woman trying on a cropped wool jacket and wide-leg trousers in a fitting room
Less padding at the shoulders, a shorter jacket: the cut feels freer

One note of caution, though: not every old piece can be rescued. A blazer that’s too nipped in at the waist, with pronounced darts and heavily constructed shoulders, will still look like a 2010s uniform even after good alterations. Straight cuts with natural shoulders age best — and slip effortlessly into today’s tailoring.

Preppy, without the school uniform

Preppy means a polo collar, cable knit, flannel trousers, loafers. In truth, it has always been lurking in our wardrobes — we just called it ‘my dad’s jumper’. What the collections are bringing back is the mix: polish borrowed from menswear, worn casually, almost carelessly. Layering does the rest, as long as you’re not piling things on for the sake of it.

That’s the nuance. This season’s preppy is not a school uniform. If you layer shirt, tie, waistcoat, blazer and loafers, you’re playing a part — and cosplay begins right there. Break up the head-to-toe look with one piece that doesn’t follow the rules: a pair of worn trainers, a hoodie slipped under the jacket. That contrast is what makes the outfit feel credible rather than catalogue.

Young woman sitting on a bed, open shirt and chunky knit layered over a hoodie
Preppy layering, undone: you pile it on, but one piece breaks the rules

The key pieces

A few touchstones that last more than a season, and are worth spending on — or hunting down second-hand.

A straight wool jacket remains the foundation: natural shoulders, hip-length, fabric with a good drape. A chunky knit jumper, crew neck or V-neck, cable or plain — here, the fabric does all the work, not the label. A poplin shirt, slightly oversized, worn open or buttoned to the top. Wide pleated trousers in flannel or thick cotton, which add polish without effort. Loafers, flat or with a small heel, or their Derby shoe counterpart. And a midi pleated skirt, if skirts are your playground.

Young Black woman in a chunky cable knit, pleated wide-leg trousers and loafers in a corridor
Chunky knit, pleated trousers, loafers: the touchstones that last more than a season

What to leave out? The skinny tie worn very seriously — unless that’s your thing, in which case own it. The blazer that’s too nipped in at the waist. And overly matched sets, which quickly tip into uniform rather than style.

Budget

On price, expect roughly £70-£250 for a new wool blazer depending on brand and make, and more like £25-£80 second-hand. Good news: that’s also where real wool is easiest to find, without blowing the budget! A chunky knit jumper sits between £35 and £130 new, £15-£45 in charity shops or on resale platforms. A decent poplin shirt starts around £20 on the high street and climbs towards £80 at mid-range brands. Wide pleated flannel trousers: £45-£120. Leather loafers: £60-£180, though a well-cared-for pair can be resoled and last for years.

Where to look? Local charity shops and resale platforms for tailoring and knitwear, mid-range brands online for basics, high-street stores for the shirt. Prices vary by city, composition (pure wool or synthetic blend), finish and how much upkeep they need. Before you get to the till, read the composition label: it’s a test that doesn’t lie.

The wardrobe test: before buying a tailoring piece, try mentally pairing it with three things you already own. If you get stuck on the second, you won’t wear it.

Beauty: adjust the finish

Tailoring calls for grooming that’s polished, not set in stone. Luminous skin, a well-defined brow, a mouth in brown or plum tones. If you want to go full preppy, a matte lipstick and a low bun make more of an impact than heavy make-up. Nothing complicated: it’s about finish, not the number of products. Your complexion keeps its natural glow, your make-up lasts the day, and the overall look stays understated.

The verdict

Is this trend worth it? Yes, but on one condition: that you adapt it to your life, not the other way round. If you spend your days in jeans and trainers, start with a single piece — a jacket or a chunky knit jumper. The rest will follow, or it won’t, and that’s fine too. We love this season because it doesn’t ask you to change everything: just to look at what you already own with fresh eyes.