Self-tan: I'm banking on a gradual glow

Self-tan: I'm banking on a gradual glow

We all know that May dilemma: on one hand, the eager urge to get out skirts and light dresses; on the other, the odd pallor we've carried since winter, the kind that makes us hesitate in front of the mirror. So we think of self-tan, obviously. Except that between the memory of an orange tint streaked across our knees, the slightly stale biscuit smell and the legitimate fear of an irreversible disaster the day before a wedding, it's enough to put us off. Good news: over the past few seasons, a new generation of moisturising lotions has changed the game. Their promise? No longer to 'paint' a tan in one go, but to build it, shade by shade, application after application. This is what we call gradual tan, and it deserves proper attention.

Before you even choose your bottle, a few golden rules remain non-negotiable, and this is often where everything is decided. Thorough hair removal and careful exfoliation come first - there is no point hoping for an even application on rough skin. Then moisturise generously for a few days before applying your product: crocodile-skin dryness and self-tan really don't mix. And take your time. The technique matters as much as the formula: first sweep over the areas that tend to darken more than others - knees, elbows, fingers, ankles - then apply in broad, sweeping strokes, working from the bottom of the body upwards rather than the other way round. Don't forget the tops of your feet or hard-to-reach areas, even if it means asking for a hand. A body scrub at least once a week will then help keep your tan even. And once you've reached the shade you want, space out applications - every two or three days is enough - so you can enjoy product-free days and moisturise as much as you like.

The formulas we rate

The easiest

Garnier Summer Body Moisturising Lotion has a reputation for being the simplest to get to grips with. Easy to use, it creates a gradual, natural, buildable tan - you apply it more or less often depending on the intensity you want, which is exactly what we ask of it. The scent is a little overpowering, but the texture moisturises well and spreads effortlessly. The lotion sinks in fairly quickly, though do beware of light clothing that could suffer if you dress too soon.

As for the result, it aims to be visible from the first application and natural: no dubious orange colour, but a soft tan that blends discreetly into the skin. It doesn't leave streaks provided you have a light hand on high-risk areas. A very good product and a lovely value for money, to be found in supermarkets, and available in light and deep skin-tone versions.

The most nourishing

With Neutrogena Nourishing Body Lotion with a Hint of Tan, it's well known: well-moisturised skin is the sine qua non of a lovely tan, natural or artificial. Neutrogena has understood this and lets you kill two birds with one stone - a light, gradual tan, visible after at least two applications, and skin that's supple and soft as you like. Be careful, though: that doesn't mean you should pile on the product.

Application-wise, the texture spreads easily but sinks in a little slowly: so plan for a moment when you have all the time in the world. The scent is a little unpleasant, as with many self-tans, for that matter - a point to improve, ladies and gentlemen of the cosmetics world! The resulting colour, however, blends perfectly into the skin - watch out for streaks, again: apply with great care. Budget-wise, expect to pay a little more than entry-level, but the two-in-one stands up for itself.

The most subtle

With Shiseido Hydrating Body Lotion with a Hint of Tan, the tan is ultra-gradual and very natural, the scent, for once, is even pleasant, the texture excellent and quite moisturising. It sinks in quickly, leaves no marks on clothes or skin, and we love the practical pump bottle, which avoids leaving a greasy film around the cap. If you're hoping for a really pronounced tan, however, avoid this one: it focuses on natural, luminous softness and nuance.

One weak point, though, and it's the price: it's the most expensive in the selection, but an excellent-quality product.

The best value

The low price of Dove Summer Glow Nourishing Lotion is as tempting as its reputation: this gradual self-tan does the job well. Application is fairly easy and the tan becomes visible quickly while staying natural. It moisturises rather well and lasts, and we forgive its scent because once you've got the knack, it no longer leaves streaks. It does take a little time to sink in: again, set aside a good window so it can work properly and avoid marks on skin and clothes. In short, a lovely result, soft sun-kissed skin and a gentle price - one of the most accessible in the selection, and far from disappointing on effectiveness.

The most glam

Lancôme Sensuelle Summer has nothing to envy its peers: practical pump bottle, pleasant texture that applies easily, a scent that's still a little overpowering but largely bearable (thank goodness, you might say), and a glam result with a shade that's neither too strong nor too subtle, plus micro-glitter that catches the light in the sun - good enough to eat. That said, we repeat: this is a self-tan with a gradual effect, tanning very gently. If you're hoping for a pronounced tan, classic self-tans are what you need. Budget-wise, we're clearly at the top end of the range.

The leg specialist

We all know that slight apprehension about a short skirt on pale legs, and L'Oréal Paris Sublime Bronze Tinted Self-Tanning Lotion tackles the problem. Note, first of all: this is a classic self-tan, not a gradual effect, but the finish stays natural and relatively light, provided you don't overdo the dose.

The fresh texture blends quickly into the skin and its caramel tint helps you apply it evenly: you can spot straight away where you need to blend, which is a plus. The result is quickly visible and very pretty, the tan soft and beautifully golden, and we like the little glow effect from the glitter, discreet but catching the light in subtle ways at the first ray of sun. Hello, short skirts! We do note a rather high price for a high-street brand product intended for legs only - and we should point out that this treatment isn't designed to moisturise: so plan a separate product to nourish your skin.

What's really changed

These sun-kissed cosmetics have come a long way from the days, not so long ago, when they turned streaky orange and bothered us with their nauseating smells. Today, from legs to face, there's plenty to choose from, and the big names of the moment even allow a gradual, buildable tan thanks to a reduced DHA content. Colour appears over successive applications and stays light, natural, letting us adopt the rhythm that suits us once we've found the perfect tan. Application is easier, mishaps less frequent and less visible, the scent more pleasant, and from mist to gel to lotion, textures can be chosen to suit your mood. Finally, between low prices and luxury products, there's a whole world out there: enough to give yourself a tailored self-tan, even on a budget.

On the naturalness front, it's worth reading the ingredients: DHA remains the reference active - it reacts with amino acids in the skin to create colour - and it can be plant-derived. The rest matters just as much: a lotion rich in glycerine and plant butters can help moisturise the skin better and therefore prolong the result. Look for refillable packaging or glass bottles where they exist, and recognised labels (Cosmos Organic, Ecocert) if natural ingredients are your priority. Let's be honest, wear time and application comfort still vary a lot from one formula to another, and a little label-reading remains the best habit.

Budget

The range is wide, and that's a good thing. In supermarkets, expect around £8 to £15 for the most accessible gradual formulas - Garnier and Dove remain the kindest to your wallet. In pharmacies and beauty retailers, expect more like £15 to £25 for a nourishing lotion such as Neutrogena. Finally, for scented versions or designer names, such as Shiseido or Lancôme, the price rises to around £35 to £50 per bottle. Format matters too: a 200 ml tube goes faster than a 150 ml pump bottle, which is easier to dose. It's up to you depending on use - a few weeks of summer or a continuous routine. And keep in mind that a bottle keeps better away from heat and direct light.

So, rather than chasing the perfect colour in one go, why not adopt the rhythm of gradual tan? Start slowly, observe, adjust - and a few days later, you may surprise yourself by finding the right tone, without having forced nature. The famous 'all in nuances', so to speak, worn from spring to autumn, for a budget that really can be chosen to suit you. In the end, perhaps that's the real gesture that changes everything: accepting that you can take your time.