You're clearing out your wardrobe and you come across that long cotton-voile skirt you never quite put away after last summer? Don't sideline it — the relaxed silhouettes doing the rounds now look a lot like it. The mood is already clear: a fluid look that lets the body breathe instead of holding it in. We went back through the season notes to see what really holds up, and how to wear it without tipping into costume.

Boho, the thread running through it all

The bohemian spirit has never quite left the catwalks, and it's surfacing again now: cotton voile, washed linen, light muslin, and that knack for layering up without weighing the silhouette down. A high-waisted maxi skirt, a plain vest top, flat sandals — the full look is right there. What's changed is the restraint: one strong print or texture, and everything else kept quiet. The drape matters more than the pattern; fabric that hangs stiffly like a curtain ruins the best of cuts. And if you go for organic cotton, the GOTS label guarantees a genuine share of organic fibres and controlled processing.

Layered boho silhouette: high-waisted washed-linen maxi skirt, plain vest top and a lightweight voile overshirt
How to layer up without weighing the silhouette down

Wide-leg trousers, a simpler take than the harem pant

The harem trouser has had its day; today's version is far easier to wear. Think high-waisted, wide-leg trousers in linen or a fluid blend: all the comfort of warm days with a cut that lets the air through. The rule hasn't moved — a fitted top to balance the volume, or you're heading straight for sack territory. This is the most demanding piece of the lot, and the one that forgives a rough drape least.

High-waisted wide-leg trousers in fluid linen worn with a fitted top, in a bright flat
High-waisted wide-leg trousers, far easier to wear than the harem pants of old

Borrowed jeans, made feminine

The jean borrowed from menswear keeps quietly doing its thing. No one says boyfriend jean any more, but the idea is intact: a straight or slightly loose leg, worn high-waisted with a plain tee. The move that pulls it all together comes down to two words — define the waist. A slim belt in vegetable-tanned leather or woven canvas, and the whole look tips. Roll the hem at the ankle, add a pair of mules, and the plainest jeans become a proper silhouette piece.

High-waisted straight-leg jeans, hem rolled at the ankle with a slim leather belt, worn with a white T-shirt
A slim belt to define the waist, the move that tips the whole look

Prints, from head to toe

Prints are back, but less chatty. Forget slogans across tees: this time it's graphic motifs, fine stripes and large-scale flowers on a light ground. A patterned skirt remains the simplest statement piece to wear, as long as you let it breathe over a plain base. A denim shirt over a printed skirt, a fluid blazer over a floral dress — the texture comes from the layering.

Denim jackets and floaty dresses

The denim jacket, again and always — go raw or faded depending on what you already own. Its real value? Layering: over a light blouse, over a long dress, over linen shorts. On the dress front, the loose cut keeps its pull — generous fit, soft drape, natural tones like ecru, sand or faded coral. Early in the season it slips over camel boots with a soft shaft; later on, over flat sandals. It's the easy piece, the one you throw on without thinking.

Sandals and accessories

Painted toenails are out in the open again, and fine-strap sandals are back to being the obvious choice. Multicoloured, silver, woven, flat or on a low heel — what matters are the fine straps and real comfort, because you'll be walking. On the accessories front, the ethnic mood is more restrained now: a raffia or vegetable-tanned leather bag, a slim belt, a beaded bracelet. One strong motif, everything else plain. On nail polish, worth knowing: some natural formulas, water-based ones especially, can offer less wear than conventional ones — a trade-off to weigh up depending on how you use them.

Léna's rule of thumb — Before you fall for a printed piece or an ethnic accessory, ask yourself one simple question: does it work with three things you already own? If yes, it earns its place; if no, leave it on the rail. It's the test I run season after season, and it saves me from a fair few dodgy buys. A statement piece wears better when it slots into a capsule wardrobe instead of floating on its own.

Budget

Good news: this look doesn't demand a big budget. In the UK, expect around £25 to £70 for a long fluid skirt, £35 to £80 for straight-leg jeans, £35 to £90 for a decent loose dress and £20 to £60 for strappy sandals. Prices climb with the city, the brand, the fabric and the care — a machine-washable cotton isn't priced like a delicate linen.

Where to find them? Charity shops and consignment stores stay reliable for denim and boho pieces. High-street retailers and supermarkets keep prices down; buying second-hand online lets you target a specific fabric without paying new prices. Set your ceiling before you head out, and stick to it.

What this look leaves behind

More than anything, this is a way of dressing: layer without weight, dare one print, choose fluidity over stiff cuts. Some pieces ride out the years without losing their shine — the long fluid skirt, the straight-leg jean, the strappy sandals. So which one is joining your wardrobe?

Sources

  • Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) — global-standard.org: the benchmark for organic textiles.
  • WRAP — wrap.org.uk: UK resources on textile consumption and making clothes last.
  • TRAID — traid.org.uk: a UK charity for textile reuse and recycling.