Waxing: the pros, cons and how to choose the right method for your skin

Waxing is a bit like exercise: everyone knows it works, and no one is ever in the mood to begin. The difference is that here the results show up straight away and last for weeks — enough to get you motivated, surely?

What waxing really has going for it

The biggest selling point is how long it lasts. Depending on the area and your hair growth, you can expect several weeks of smoothness, whereas a razor has you back at it every couple of days. Second, when hair grows back after waxing, the tip is naturally tapered, so it feels softer than a blunt razor cut — and that prickly sensation largely disappears.

On the money front, a box of strips or a pot of wax costs far less than a monthly salon appointment. And you're in charge of the timing: no need to book the day before a weekend away. It sounds silly, but it makes a real difference.

The downsides, and how to deal with them

There's no getting around it: waxing hurts. The more sensitive the area — upper lip, bikini line, underarms — the sharper it feels. The good news is that the pain tends to ease over time. Hair often becomes finer and sparser, and your skin gets used to the sensation.

Other downsides include redness in the hours afterwards, occasionally small spots, and ingrown hairs if you don't exfoliate. Then there's the length issue: wax needs around 5 mm of hair to grip, so if you've just shaved, wait two to three weeks for it to reach the right length.

There are times when you should skip waxing altogether: broken skin, sunburn, a mole, varicose veins, or retinoid treatment — whether topical or oral — because there's a real risk of tearing the skin. If you're unsure, ask your GP, dermatologist or pharmacist for advice.

Cold wax: the last-minute option that really works

Ready-made strips are the ultimate last-minute option: warm them between your palms, peel them apart, apply in the direction of hair growth, smooth down, then pull firmly in the opposite direction while holding the skin taut with your other hand. Use each strip two or three times, no more — after that it barely grips.

For real ease, buy a mixed-width pack, with narrow strips for underarms and the bikini line. On the waste front, it's not great: strips are single-use. To limit the damage, some brands sell washable fabric strips that you reuse with your own wax — cheaper and far less wasteful.

Sometimes bits of wax are left on the skin: a plant oil (sweet almond, sunflower) or a cleansing oil on a cotton pad will lift it straight off.

The technique that makes all the difference

Three details separate a bearable wax from a bad memory. First, skin tension: the tauter the skin, the less the pull hurts. Second, hair length: not too short, not too long — around 5 mm is ideal. Third, direction: apply in the direction of growth and pull in the opposite direction, close to the skin, without hesitating.

Another tip: work in small sections. One half-leg, then the other — that way the wax doesn't cool while you dither.

Warm or hot wax: the at-home ritual

Meltable beads, a microwavable pot, a heated roll-on, a thermostat-controlled wax warmer: there's no shortage of formats. The most comfortable option is often a warmer that keeps the wax at a steady temperature, but it's an investment — best for anyone planning to use it every month.

Before every application, test the temperature on your wrist or a small patch: wax that's too hot burns, and that's the one mistake you can't undo. Then spread a smooth, even layer with a spatula, let the wax set — it should no longer stick to your finger — and remove it with a firm pull. As for ingredients, many waxes rely on resin or beeswax rather than paraffin: they're often gentler on sensitive skin, and a glass or metal pot is easier to recycle than a box of strips.

Budget

Prices vary wildly depending on whether you do it yourself or go to a salon. As a rough guide, expect to pay around £4–£12 for a box of cold wax strips from a supermarket, pharmacy or beauty retailer, £8–£20 for a pot of wax or beads, and £30–£80 for a thermostat-controlled wax warmer. In a salon, a full-leg wax often costs between £25 and £60, a bikini wax between £12 and £30, and underarm waxing between £10 and £20. The price depends on your location, the area, the treatment tier and how often you go — a course or package often brings the cost down. Strips and wax are available from supermarkets, pharmacies, health-food shops and online; salon treatments are booked at a salon or beauty clinic.

After waxing: the habits that help you avoid trouble

For 24 hours, avoid saunas, steam rooms, hot baths, swimming pools, perfumed deodorant under the arms and sun exposure on the treated area. Afterwards, gentle exfoliation once or twice a week and regular moisturising are good protection against ingrown hairs.

The verdict

Waxing offers genuinely good value for money if you accept two things: a bit of pain on the day, and a small maintenance routine between appointments. Cold wax for last-minute sessions, warm wax for areas you want to stay flawless for longer. And if the pain really puts you off, going to a salon for the first time makes all the difference: you'll see the right technique, then you can recreate it at home.

Sources

• Mayo Clinic, Hair removal — mayoclinic.org
• American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), Hair removal — aad.org