Permanent make-up (or cosmetic micropigmentation)

How permanent make-up is applied

First of all, a word of warning: this treatment should only be carried out by a qualified professional — a practitioner who specialises in permanent make-up, or a dermatologist.

The practitioner introduces pigments beneath the skin with an ultra-fine needle, placing them more superficially in the dermis than a standard tattoo would. We call it permanent make-up, but in reality the pigment colour fades over the months, and the result generally lasts one to three years.

How long it lasts depends on several factors: how quickly your skin renews itself, the shades used — some fade faster than others — and your lifestyle. Sun exposure, for instance, dulls pigments.

It is worth remembering that permanent make-up is everyday make-up: it should therefore stay very natural, which does not stop you intensifying it with regular make-up whenever you fancy.

So permanent make-up can be used to redraw eyebrows that are sparse because of a scar or that no longer grow back, to give shape to lips that are too thin or poorly defined; it can also define the eye line, or add the odd beauty spot here and there.

Lower face of a young woman with a redrawn lip contour and a natural pink-beige tint

It can also conceal a scar or an unsightly mark.

As you will have gathered, this is not a full, elaborate make-up look that you keep on permanently — it is about softening a small flaw or enhancing certain features of the face.

As with any procedure, however minor, there are precautions to take once you decide to go ahead.

As with a tattoo, you need to be satisfied about the practitioner's competence and the quality of their work and their equipment.

Choose a professional who specialises in permanent make-up and carries it out regularly: it is well worth asking for a written quote beforehand.

Insist on quality pigments, ask what they contain and check that they comply with UK regulations; any reaction should be reported to your practitioner. Ask for proof that the equipment is sterile too, if that sets your mind at rest.

A session takes around two to three hours, depending on the type of appointment, and is carried out under local anaesthetic.

Afterwards there is nothing too dramatic: a little redness, and some swelling for about a week in the treated area. Avoid sun, swimming pools and make-up on that area while the skin settles; for aftercare, a simple healing balm is enough — nothing perfumed or containing essential oils on freshly treated skin.

Micropigmentation session: client lying down, gloved practitioner working on an eyebrow in daylight

The benefits of permanent make-up?

No need to look far: make-up that stays in place, no longer smudges, and is still there and flawless first thing in the morning.

It takes just a few hours to restore the harmony of the face, redraw a small flaw... rather tempting!

Permanent make-up first appeared a few years ago: it is a technique inspired by tattooing that involves implanting pigments under the skin.

Macro shot of a micropigmentation needle tracing an eyebrow hair by hair on mixed-race skin

But tattooing and permanent make-up are two quite distinct things, and a few clarifications are worth knowing before you take the plunge.

Before you book, ask for a full breakdown of the quote — first session and top-up — the composition of the pigments used, and how the equipment is sterilised. Ask to see recent work on skin similar to yours, too. And if you are on medication, pregnant, or your skin reacts easily, speak to a healthcare professional first.

Cost

Expect roughly £250 to £450 for redrawn eyebrows, £280 to £550 for a lip contour or lip blush, and often £70 to £130 more for the top-up session, which many practitioners charge separately. Prices vary a great deal depending on where you live, the practitioner's experience and how many areas are treated: a written quote, requested from several clinics, is the only real way to compare.