Dark circles: skincare and make-up tips

Five hours' sleep, a full day rushing around, and tonight in the mirror two small suitcases have moved in under your eyes. The worst part? The weekend makes no difference: they stay put. For some, it runs in the family; for others, it's built-up tiredness, a lingering allergy that won't shift, or skin so thin that blood vessels show through. In truth, there's no single trick, because there isn't just one type of dark circle — and before you rush out to buy a concealer, it helps to know which family you're dealing with.

Identify your dark circle type

Bluish or purple dark circles come mainly from vessels showing through thin skin. Brown ones are pigmented: melanin builds up, often from rubbing, sun exposure or an untreated allergy. Then there's the hollow under the eye — not a colour but a shadow, because light no longer passes through. And there are bags and puffiness, caused by water retention or a fat pad, very often hereditary. Four families, four different sets of rules: no point expecting the same result from the same steps.

Genetics play a big part, and no serum can change that. On the other hand, smoking, alcohol, broken sleep, rubbing your eyes, sun without protection: these are what make things worse — and that's something you can really influence. The step that changes everything rarely starts in the bathroom: it starts in the bedroom.

One important note: if a dark circle appears suddenly on one side, or comes with pain or swelling, it is no longer a cosmetic issue. See your GP. As for medical procedures — injections, lasers, surgery — these should be discussed in consultation with a qualified practitioner: results vary, are often not permanent, and carry real risks. No one should promise you otherwise.

Close-up of the eye area without make-up, fine skin with bluish tones and visible vessels

Morning routine: cold, drainage, consistency

Cold is an effective shortcut. A used tea bag chilled in the fridge, a spoon from the freezer, a roll-on kept cool: cold tightens the vessels, and bluish dark circles fade. The effect is very temporary — don't count on it for the whole day!

Next comes drainage. With the tip of your ring finger, tap from the inner corner of the eye outwards, following the orbital bone. Never on the moving eyelid, never by pulling. The step that changes everything is gentleness: pressing harder doesn't drain better, it irritates — and irritation can quickly turn into pigmented dark circles.

The rest is less dramatic but longer-lasting: regular sleep times, a slightly raised pillow, screens off before bed. And sun protection around the eye area, because it's a key step in preventing pigmented dark circles. It's rarely repeated enough, but SPF under the eyes works more quietly than many serums.

Pot of eye cream kept cool, chilled spoon and linen compress on a tray

Make-up in the right order

A concealer that shows is almost always one applied badly. The right order: correct the colour, then cover. For bluish dark circles, a touch of peach or apricot; for brown ones, salmon.

Beware the old advice: two shades lighter creates a grey zone rather than a rested look. Half a shade to one shade lighter is enough. As for texture, a fluid cream blends better than a thick product if your skin is dry.

To apply: use very little product, in small dots, then tap with your ring finger without stretching. A veil of fine powder only where the product slips. On a hollow, don't pile it on: a touch of highlighter in the groove, nothing more.

Skincare: how to choose

A good eye cream is a gel or a light serum, not a rich cream: in this area, heavy textures make make-up migrate. Roll-ons and gels certified COSMOS ORGANIC can be found in pharmacies and supermarkets, often around £10 from certified pharmacy brands. The label sets out the composition — at least 95% natural-origin ingredients, 95% of plant ingredients from organic farming, plus a minimum organic content in the total formula. It makes no promise of effectiveness on dark circles; it mainly guarantees a formula without silicones or synthetic fragrance.

Concealer is another matter, and it's worth saying: coverage relies on coated pigments and films that are largely conventional. A certified organic concealer that really covers is still rare. The compromise, if you want to limit impact: a refillable format or a minimalist stick, rather than a ten-shade palette you'll use two shades from.

Hydrogel patches: we've documented them, but not tested them.

The five-minute express ritual

  1. Two minutes of cold (roll-on, compress, cooled tea bag).
  2. Light drainage, from the inner corner outwards.
  3. Eye serum, then SPF.
  4. Colour corrector, concealer, veil of powder.
  5. The rest of your usual routine.

Nothing magical in that: consistency does the work.

Budget

An eye gel or roll-on: expect around £7 to £18 in supermarkets or from a certified pharmacy brand, £13 to £30 in pharmacies, £40 to £80 in luxury brands. A concealer: £4 to £10 in supermarkets, £13 to £26 in department stores, up to £45 in luxury brands. A box of hydrogel patches: £4 to £13. Cold and drainage are free if you keep your product in the fridge — that's something.

What changes the bill: certification, which involves costly audits for the brand; the format, refillable or not; the packaging, glass or plastic; the sales channel. Medical procedures are another budget entirely, running into hundreds of pounds per session, and are not covered by the NHS outside a medical indication.

Where to buy: supermarkets, pharmacies, department stores, the brand's official website. And compare price per millilitre rather than the sticker price — with small formats, the difference adds up fast. On the budget front, keep a cool head... appropriately enough.

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