How to wear a playsuit well this summer

You've seen it on the biggest catwalks at the spring/summer 2010 shows, and since then the playsuit has gone mainstream, settling in as one of summer's essentials. It now comes in new fabrics too — leather, linen, even silk, for an effect that's sexy and floaty at once.

One thing's certain: a playsuit is the path of least resistance. No debating which top to wear with it, no hours spent matching colours — just add accessories and you're set.

Finding the one that suits you is all about trying them on, and there's no shortage of options: muted colours or bold ones, floral, ethnic or bohemian prints, short sleeves, straps, bandeau tops… there's something for every taste.

One golden rule: choose a playsuit with a built-in belt or a shape that defines the waist, so you avoid the sack effect — or looking like you're carrying a baby in a sling.

As for footwear, skip trainers — they'll give the whole outfit a teenage look. Go for gladiator sandals for a relaxed feel, heels for a city-smart one and wedges for a bohemian mood.

Our playsuit shopping edit: a few lovely styles we picked out at the time from Monshowroom.com, a French retailer that was a proper Aladdin's cave of playsuits and has since been absorbed into the La Redoute group.

Grey-beige, a buttoned top, a waist marked with belt loops and shorts with turn-ups: that's the 2Two playsuit. Also available in navy.

Ethnic-chic for this navy playsuit, embroidered in red with pom-pom trim at the waist. A really pretty piece that pulls a bohemian look together in no time. Also 2Two.

A romantic Liberty print, soft colours and a bandeau top: that's the Best Mountain playsuit.

A lovely beige to set off a summer tan, a plunging neckline and a fluid fabric: that's the American Vintage style.

Denim-look cotton with embroidered elastic; we like the deep blue and the straight neckline — a very nice playsuit from Monshowroom.

100% linen for comfort, a bright white, adjustable straps and a pronounced button placket: this is the smarter version, by Firetrap.

Cotton, linen and silk for this style with a military edge by Iro. With its tie at the waist, chest pockets and buttoned bib, it has everything you'd want from an adventurer's playsuit (a city adventurer, obviously).

And we finish with the Only playsuit in washed denim: vintage-flavoured and casual, but impeccably cut, with a straight neckline and a tie belt.

The playsuit entered the trend reports a few seasons ago, but it got a fairly timid reception — at first, at least. The catch, as anyone who has tried one knows, is that it isn't necessarily easy to wear; not because it's hard to style, but because it doesn't suit every body shape. And yet this summer the playsuit is more current than ever, in a whole spread of versions from the chic-est to the most bohemian. That range makes it much easier to find one that fits you and that you actually like.

What to pay

Expect to pay roughly £25–£50 for a cotton or viscose playsuit from a high-street chain, about £50–£100 for a slightly better-cut piece in linen or organic cotton, and £120-plus for silk, vegetable-tanned leather or a designer name. The price climbs fast with the fabric — a 100% linen piece shows itself in the drape, softer and more creased than a blend — and with the cut: a properly fitted waist takes more work to make than a straight style. Buy in store, because trying it on really is essential, or online provided you check the size chart and the returns policy. And remember: the plainest piece is often the one you already wear.

Sources

• Ready-to-wear: which fabrics to choose for summer, ADEME (the French agency for the ecological transition), consumer guide.